The Great Western Breach--Fact & Fiction
There is much misinformation about the Great Western Breach which is the ascent path used most commonly by the Shira Route among others. Below, we have addressed some of the common misconceptions about this route with the corresponding realities:
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FICTION: The Western Breach (Shira) is an easy
climb
FACT: The Western Breach is in fact the most physically challenging
trekking climb to the summit on Kibo Peak. The Western Breach
ascends a three-thousand foot nearly vertical rock face from Arrow
Glacier Hut to the Crater's rim (from 15,700 to about 18,600),
and it requires one to raise the legs high, like climbing very
large stairs. Additionally, while ascending the Breach, one must
use caution to ensure that the rocks being used to steady oneself
are not loose or prone to being dislodged. Also, at certain times
of the year, icy sections can be found on this route, making crampons
necessary.
FICTION: There is no night climbing (starting
at midnight) on this route.
FACT: While it is technically correct to say that the summit
day does not begin in the wee hours of the morning (when staying
overnight in the Crater), it is misleading because the day prior
to the summit (the climb up the Breach) does begin rather early
(between 2AM and 3AM). This is because the Breach freezes up over
night and, thus, becomes more stable. Once the sun is up, the
ice melts that holds many of the rocks securely to the wall of
the breach; therefore, there is constant rock fall during the
day. The goal of the climbing party is to reach the Crater's rim
just after sunrise for optimum safety.
FICTION: Only the Western Breach climbers may
stay in the Crater overnight.
FACT: Climbers may choose to spend the night in the Crater
on any of the three ascent paths of Kibo Peak (Marangu, Mweka
(Machamé) or Western Breach). Staying in the Crater makes
the most sense on the Western Breach route because there is a
rather steep climb from the Crater's floor (from Furtwangler Glacier)
to Uhuru Peak; whereas on the other routes, the climbs to the
summit are more gradual once the climber reaches the Crater's
rim. Spending the night in the Crater is good in that it gives
one a chance to rest and enjoy the crater, but most people find
their time in the Crater to be quite taxing on mind and body.
FICTION: The Shira Route is less crowded than
the Machamé Trail.
FACT: While this was true not long ago, in recent times,
more and more people are opting for the Shira Route. At times,
the Lava Tower and Arrow Glacier Huts can have quite a large number
of climbers at them. The most densely populated area for both
the Machamé Trail and Shira Route is the Shira Plateau
which is accessed by both of these routes. Further, the large
suppliers who run climbs on the Shira Route can place as many
as 15 or 16 climbers at the various huts, excluding climbing staff.
Certainly, at these times, the Shira will have more people on
it than the Machamé Trail. If you really prefer a very
secluded climb, the most private route combination would be Rongai,
Summit Circuit North and Western Breach. On this route combination,
you can climb for two full days and never see another climber
except for your party.
FICTION: Only the Shira Route can use the Western
Breach
FACT: Any climb that accesses the Shira Plateau can ascend
the Western Breach including the Machamé, Shira and Rongai
via the Summit Circuit North Route.
All in all, both the Shira Route and the Machamé Trail provide excellent climbs of Kilimanjaro. Both are challenging and beautiful, and both are very sparsely populated in comparison to the Marangu Trail.
We are happy to arrange climbs on either of these trails as well as all other trails on the mountain. To discuss which trail might best fit your desires, please contact us.
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